Introduction
So we’re at the number now in this series where we are classified as adults in Japan, but not old enough yet to drink alcohol – that comes in a couple of entries time. And what better Source of Style than Pilsner to look at. This is going to be a contentious one as no doubt everyone has had a pilsner once in their life, and since the original style came about, there has been some diversification into what makes a Pilsner, well, a Pilsner.
For this though, we’re going to look at the two classic styles of pilsners – the Czech-style Pilsner and the German-style Pilsner. While there are some other syles – American-style and Mexican-style Pilsners, they are not popular in Japan, nor are they readily made in Japan.
A Brief History of Pilsners
Pilsners take their name from the Bohemian city of Plzeň. The Bohemian area is the westernmost and largest historical region of the Czech Republic; however it is now a historical reference to that area though the city of Plzeň exists to this day.
Like most of the brewing nations in Europe at that time, brewing rights for cities were a necessity and Plzeň received its brewing rights in 1307. From that point until the mid 1840s, beers were top fermented where they ferment quickly, and the yeasts classed as bottom-fermenting are used in cooler fermentations where they ferment more slowly. Brewers had begun ageing their beer made with cool fermenting yeasts in caves which improved the beer’s clarity and shelf-life.
However, In the late 1830s the people of Pilsen began to drink less expensive imported bottom-fermented beers to local top-fermented beers. As a result, many of top-fermented beers from Pilsen were not being sold fast enough causing them to be spoiled and then poured away. A new brewery was built in anticipation of using bottom-fermenting yeasts and a local brewer, Josef Groll, was hired and put in charge of making beers using local malt and hops in the process.
On 5 October 1842, Groll brewed the first batch of Urquell beer. The use of Pilsen water, which is deemed to be soft or low in minerals, barley malt prepared in indirectly heated English-style kiln and Saaz hops, which to this day remain a standard in making Pilsner style beers, resulted in a golden colour and herbal, floral taste.
Of course, this was before the time of refrigeration, so caves in the local area were used to ensure that the beer did not age or spoil quickly. The beer was later called Pilsner Urquell, with the Urquell part meaning “original source” so essential it was “Original Pilsner”. The popularity of this beer surged and in 1853, many pubs across Prague were selling the beer, and within 10 years, Pilsner Urquell could be found further afield in Paris.
During the late 19th century, new refrigeration techniques were developed which meant that caves no longer needed to be used, and in turn, a more stable atmosphere for brewing could be used. This also enabled new locations to be used, closer to water and malt sources, reducing transportation costs. In 1898, the Pilsner Urquell trademark was created to put emphasis on being the original brewery in spite of imitators becoming popular amongst locals and also further afield.
Styles of Pilsner
When you’re talking about pilsner beers, there are numerous styles within the pilsner world that can be discussed but we’re only going to look at the two main ones on the market for the moment: Czech-style Pilsners and German-style Pilsners. What they both have in common is the brewing process. Both require cool fermentation, around 10ºC / 50ºF, and an extended cold maturation period at which it should be stored just above freezing. The long cool fermentation and the extended cold conditioning is absolutely critical to producing clean, crisp pilsners without technical defects.
Czech Pilsners
Bright golden colour, moderately bitter and distinct aroma, brewed with malt and Saaz hops. In the Czech Republic, only Pilsner Urquell is named as “pilsner” due to it being a protected brand. Often, Czech-style pilsners are slightly more malt-forward, with notes of biscuit, cracker and bread. They can be lower in carbonation and have a more full, rounded mouthfeel. They finish crisp and refreshing.
German Pilsners
German-style pilsners are pale yellow in colour and can often be unfiltered causing a hazy appearance. Often called Pils to differentiate it from the Czech-style. As these recipes tend to utilise German hops, such as Tettnanger or Hallertau, they’re bitterness is more pronounced. Flavours of lemon and honey can often be found in them as well. With higher carbonation, they have a drier, lighter mouthfeel and finish crisp with a lingering bitterness.
There are some other variations of the style, with American, Australian, and Mexican Pilsners being popular amongst those regions, but these variations were designed to cut costs. Such changes include replacing part of the barley with rice. While cheap, rice contributes little flavour or aroma to the brew. With the flavours contributed by the barley, the balancing hops can also be cut to drive costs even lower. The resulting beer has an equal amount of alcohol but less flavour and aroma, making it seem watery compared to other 100 percent barley pilsners.
Czech Pilsners : Appearance and Taste
Here’s the guidelines from the BJCP for what makes Czech-style Pilsners such a great beer to drink.
Appearance : Very pale gold to deep burnished gold, brilliant to very clear, with a dense, long-lasting, creamy white head.
Aroma : Rich with complex malt and a spicy, floral Saaz hop bouquet. Some pleasant, restrained diacetyl is acceptable, but need not be present. Otherwise clean, with no fruity esters.
Taste : Rich, complex maltiness combined with a pronounced yet soft and rounded bitterness and spicy flavour from Saaz hops. Some diacetyl is acceptable, but need not be present. Bitterness is prominent but never harsh, and does not linger. The aftertaste is balanced between malt and hops. Clean, no fruity esters.
German Pilsners : Appearance and Taste
Here’s the guidelines from the BJCP for what makes German-style Pilsners such a great beer to drink.
Appearance : Straw to light gold, brilliant to very clear, with a creamy, long-lasting white head.
Aroma : Typically features a light grainy Pils malt character (sometimes Graham cracker-like) and distinctive flowery or spicy noble hops. Clean, no fruity esters, no diacetyl. May have an initial sulfury aroma (from water and/or yeast) and a low background note of DMS (from Pils malt).
Taste : Crisp and bitter, with a dry to medium-dry finish. Moderate to moderately-low yet well attenuated maltiness, although some grainy flavours and slight Pils malt sweetness are acceptable. Hop bitterness dominates taste and continues through the finish and lingers into the aftertaste. Hop flavour can range from low to high but should only be derived from German noble hops. Clean, no fruity esters, no diacetyl.
Japanese Pilsners We Recommend
Czech Pilsners
Ebina Lager (Draft)
The Bottom Line : Ebina Lager is a decent effort, but take the fresh tapped version of the bottled version.
Full Review : Ebina Lager Full Review
Kobo Premiant Pilsner
The Bottom Line : Japan has a plethora of good macro pilsners – Kobo Premiant Pilsner is a great craft pilsner that is worth drinking.
Full Review : Kobe Premian Pilsner Full Review
Nihonkai Club Pilsner
The Bottom Line : Nihonkai Club Pilsner is one of the best Japanese pilsners – if you see it on the menu, then order it.
Full Review : Nihonkai Club Pilsner Full Review
Bay Brewing Pilsner
The Bottom Line : I like Bay Brewing Pilsner on tap, and you would too.
Full Review : Bay Brewing Pilsner Full Review
German Pilsners
Bayern Meister Prinz
The Bottom Line : Bayern Meister Prinz is a well made German pilsner and would happily buy it again. If I could find it in the shops.
Full Review : Bayern Meister Prinz Full Review
Otaru Pilsner
The Bottom Line : Otaru Pilsner is a decent pilsner and at a very good price. Well worth trying when fresh.
The Full Review : Otaru Pilsner Full Review
Imported Pilsners We Recommend
Let’s be honest – if you’re going to try a style of beer, then it’s also worth trying out some of the overseas beers. With the massive influx of beer, it should be quite easy to find some of these beers on here, while others are much harder to find. Check out the label on the bottle to see when the beer was bottled, and also ask how the beer was imported. Was it in a cold chain from start to finish? Was the beer stored in a chilled environment in store? If the shop assistant can’t, or doesn’t know the answer, then give it a miss.
Budvar (Czech)
Pilsner Urquell (Czech)
Radeberger Pilsner (German)
Jever Pilsener (German)
