Look, I know there is a certain expectation now for me to be eating chips as I go to a bar to do a write-up. It was kind of self-propagated as my thinking behind it was that if a bar can make good chips – and I mean GOOD chips, not ones that have come out of the local supermarket / bulk warehouse store and dumped into a fryer, then they can probably look after the lines of the beer system and also pour good pints of beer. And this usually holds true – some of the best places I’ve been to have had fresh made chips and very good pours and clean tasting beers.
However, there are times where I want something a bit more substantial – and no doubt people will say “what about pizza?” – again, something I know I am guilty of as beer and pizza, as with beer and fried chicken, are just fantastic combinations that pair well together. The salty and savoury flavours of the food help you to drink more of that beer, which then means you order more beer or perhaps even more food. But this still feels like a very basic combination.
Being in Japan, I’m constantly exposed to food that, without wanting to pull punches, often comes across as bland or lacking in real depth of flavour. Yes, I do like the food but if you’re drinking something that is heavy in the hops then you’re not going to be able to taste much from the food – which explains why Asahi Super Dry, often called Super Bland, is paired to beer for diners. Going to craft beer bars, the food is often izakaya styled concoctions of fried bits of vegetables, slabs of meat in the form of steak, chicken, or pork, and perhaps with some salad on the side.
It all seems rather insipid and creates a dangerous cycle whereby people will stick to ordering the fried food, such as chips, and then you come back to people wondering why the food at craft beer bars is so, well fried and greasy. But it doesn’t have to be that way.
It was on a recent trip to a favourite bar of mine in Yokohama (Uchida Biyori for those wondering) that I got talking to the owner and about the food that they serve. While they try to source as much local produce from the Yokohama that they can, they also try to think about the menu and how it goes along with the drinks that they serve – both nihonshu and craft beer. The owner went on to talk about how rather than treating them as two individual parts of the menu, they should be thought of as complementary to one another to help improve the flavours of both.
But this shouldn’t be new to people as food and wine pairings have been a common point of discussion since the dawn of drinking. It is often said that dark meats and red wine go best together and don’t think about having white fish with a red wine. Think about those times you have had dinner with friends at restaurants and you have been offered some coffee, or perhaps something stronger, with your dessert. Food and wine pairings are synonymous with the industry so isn’t it about time that food and beer should be brought under the same umbrella?
Of course, BeerTengoku is not the first to think about this – as mentioned Uchida Biyori tries to tailor their menu to complement with their drinks – but it would be great if bars that offered up food could perhaps take into account some recommendations for drinkers who want to enjoy a beer with their food. Here are some ways that you yourself can try making some food and beer pairings to elevate both your eating and drinking experience:
- Contrast – something spicy against a light beer is a classic combination but how about something spicy against something, well, sour. Saisons are known for their funk, and sours for their tartness, so combining this with something spicy, such as some chilli, curry, or even the basic spicy chicken dishes, will help the flavours of both to stand out. A particular favourite of mine is a prickly saison with some pad krapow gai aka spicy Thai Chicken.
- Compliment – of course, it could also be considered that rather than going against the grain, that getting food and beer to help accentuate some flavours works well. Desserts are an excellent way to do this, as hearty stews. A good solid porter or stout, with a dark stew can bring forward the smokey favours of both, while some light american pale ales with some white fish tacos are also a fantastic complimenting pair. An amber beer would go well with something a touch on the sweet side, like some pulled pork.
- Cleanse – If you’re going for some food that has some pungent flavours, such as garlic or spicy goods, then you may want something that helps to cleanse the palate, with some citrus or sweet flavours. It is often said that milk is better for cleansing the palate than water, so about a beer with lactose in to help take the edge of a spicy dish, in preparation for the next dish that would link back into 1 or 2.
So get out and try some new combinations of food and move away from the chips, pizza, and fried chicken wings that dominate bars. Yes, I know that they are quick and easy to make, but have something different and who knows, you may find a new flavour combination that you like and become attached to. For me, I am looking forward to find some new beer combinations with Thai food to try.
